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Obsession With Perfection Racing

My Tips and Tricks

 

 

Now, I've only been into these cars for a little while compared to some... but I've learned a few things along the way. If it's on this page, it's something I learned. Others may well have contributed!

Door Handles won't open the door, or need a lot of force to work

This applies to all models of SD.
The problem described, doors hard to open because door handles have to be pulled out and yank on door, is usually due to metal fatigue of parts inside the door. There is an odd shaped channel that backs up the handle assembly from inside the door; you must remove the interior panel from the door to fix the problem. Once that's out of the way, carefully remove the plastic moisture shield from the door. Directly behind the handle assembly are some small acess holes. Through one of these you can see a nut, centered on the odd shaped piece of metal (It's kind of Z shaped). This one nut holds the handle assembly in place, and often you can simply loosen it, shove the handle assembly down so it sits lower on the door, and tighten it back up. Sometimes the metal piece has bent a little, and pulling it out and reshaping it to be a little more rectangular, then reassembling does the trick. But either way, it's a fairly short process to go from extreme frustration with the way your doors open (or don't) to properly operating door handles.

(It's also possible that the hinges have gone south, but less usual, and I'll let someone else tell us how best to fix that...)
 

 

Oil pressure gauge acts 'wonky'

Sometimes my oil pressure gauge would act a bit funny. Actually, at the time, it wasn't funny at all, because when I got into the boost, the gauge would indicate that my oil pressure was falling rapidly, and I was scared to death I was about to lose oil pressure and ruin my engine.

The symptoms that you might see are as follows:

  • Oil pressure gauge reads normally at idle
  • Oil pressure gauge reads normally at cruise
  • Oil pressure gauge indicates a rapid fall in pressure under any hard acceleration and under boost
  • Oil pressure recovers as soon as you get off the throttle
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    To me, it looked like some weird form of oil starvation that only happened when I hit the gas hard. I went through a bunch of strange guesses before I discovered that the problem was in the sender. I thought the sender was bad, and replaced it. The new sender did exactly the same thing! A little more experimentation gave me the answer, and a solution.

    To see the solution, click here.
     
     

    New Exhaust Donut Bolts

    I replace the exhaust donut bolts anytime they have to come off, for example when replacing the turbo or the head gasket. Every Shelby-Dodge car I've worked on had enough rust and scale on them to make them a real pain to remove, and I usually broke one getting them out. Replacement is probably going to be a necessity in any case, so I now just go buy them before I start taking things apart.

    Here's the trick, and the tip.

  • Use a 13 mm socket and an extension about 18 to 24 inches long from behind the K-frame to remove and install the bolts
  • Replace the exhaust bolts anytime you have to take them off, at least the first time on a given car
  • Get two of the nuts with "wings" on them. This makes installation a whole lot easier, as you won't need a helper up top, and also makes removal the next time a lot easier too.
  • Coat the new nuts and bolts with antisieze compound. Baste them really well. It won't completely prevent rust, because these things are exposed to a lot of road debris and a whole lot of heat, but it sure does help!

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    Do It Yourself Headliner Replacement

    You can replace the headliner easily, and for only about 30 bucks. Click above to see how.
     
     
     

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